Days 4 and 5 – In Dungarpur and Udaipur

Fresco at Juna Mahal

After three days of early starts as we flew east and lost time, Sunday was a lie in with a leisurely breakfast before we started our sightseeing. Having looked at the motor museum on the previous evening complete with model aircraft and other memorabilia, we started with the Maharawal’s family museum which had some interesting costume and photographic exhibits. Then a short drive on to Juna Mahal or Old Palace built in the 13th century high up on a rocky peak with some fine frescoes and glass and mirror inlay work. Juna Mahal is no longer occupied except for a caretaker.

Then a two hour drive to Udaipur where we arrived for a late lunch. Indian roads are interesting; we had a two lane highway for most of the way and slow lorries would occupy both lanes so cars would overtake in either lane and glide pretty effortlessly from one to another with only the occasional harder braking moment. Still English grannies would not understand the system at all.

After lunch it was time for swimming and relaxing, catching up with books and emails before an excellent Indian dinner preceded by drinks round an open log brazier.

Miranda and Phil at roof level of Udaipur Palace

Today we breakfasted rather earlier, in time to be collected for a tour of Udaipur Palace, part of which is still lived in by the Maharajah and his family. The Palace is set on relatively high ground overlooking a man made lake with an island on which sits what was the Maharajah’s summer house which featured in Octopussy (must get this out and look at it again when we are back home). The main Palace is spread out over three buildings in Persian, Hindu and Colonial styles respectively.

Miranda and I overlooking the lake with ‘Octopussy’ island beyond

We started by seeing the fine Durbar Hall followed by the Crystal Gallery where possibly the finest collection of crystal to be found anywhere is displayed; it was ordered from Birmingham in 1877 but only unpacked more than 100 years later in 1984. As well as elaborate furniture made out of crystal, there were hundreds of crystal glasses, decanters and other such objects for fine dining but none of them have ever been used.

Udaipur street scene

From there we went to the Museum in another part of the Palace where there were some interesting objects but it was rather crowded. Then a short drive to a workshop where an artists’ co-operative do fine paintings,  and we also saw manual wood block printing of materials being done.

 

Miranda block printing an elephant

A shopping moment followed giving Phil an opportunity to hone his bargaining skills last seen in Istanbul in 2012. This was followed by a walk in the vegetable market and various side streets where we managed to see raw Udaipur street life and avoid (just) being run over by tuc tucs and motor bikes on the way to see our first Hindu temple

Our hotel owner’s black lab

 

 

Then a return to the hotel and tea. Phil has decided to visit a couple more temples, Miranda is going to read and I am off for a swim having made friends with the (English) hotel owner’s two labradors. Tomorrow we move on.